Skandapuran and an Indonesian Lesson in Tolerance

At the entrance of the famous Prambanan temple complex just outside Yogyakarta, we were in our regular dilemma – whether to take a guide or not? But eventually we decided to go for one and for the next one and half hour or so, our guide was Yono, a middle-aged local guy. As he began with a story of Vishnupuran, we were a bit surprised.

Yono explained that this largest Hindu temple complex in the island of Java (and second largest in South East Asia, after Angkor Wat) was established at the confluence of two rivers, right at the base of Mount Merapi, an active volcano and at a place, which was the most fertile land in the vicinity – that’s how the best of three elements - water, fire and earth were combined here. The main temples, dedicated to the Trimurti or Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva were built sometime in the second half of the 9^th century under the patronages of Hindu Sanjaya kings, who succeeded the Buddhist Sailendra kings in this part of Java (the Sailendras built the nearby Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world).

Borobudur

Though the Mataram Court shifted out of this area after a century or so, the complex continued to benefit from multiple patronage and at least 240 temples came up here. The entire complex suffered repeatedly due to earthquakes and volcanic eruptions (major ones in the 11^th and 16^th century) before being abandoned. The complex is still being painstakingly rebuilt since the first such efforts by the colonial Dutch government in the early 20^th century.

Yono effortlessly went on explaining typical Indian architectural features, linking those with various Puranic stories and the Hindu concepts of time (as explained in Skandapuran), mandala, and re-incarnations. He drew simple diagrams on soft soil with a small stick to explain architectural alignments or cosmological features. We were two Indians and one Indonesian in our group – often he looked at two of us and said you must be knowing this better than me and we exchanged embarrassing glances with each other. He would turn then towards our Indonesian friend and would explain the story/linkages with local legends or precise Javanese expressions for the same.  As I tried to hide my embarrassment, I could not help thinking that in Java, Indic religions have gone out of practice now for more than five-six centuries, yet they have retained so much.

In the evening, this Prambanan temple complex provides the backdrop for a scintillating open air Ramayana ballet. Both the Indian epics occupy an important part in Indonesian society and culture and today’s Muslim-majority Indonesia takes great pride in celebrating such cultural heritage. Prambanan itself has reliefs of Ram-Sita and the mythical bird, Garuda, which is Indonesia’s national symbol. Garuda also lends its name to the Indonesian flag carrier. All the performers in Ramayana ballet are Muslims, just like our guide, Yono.

Pic Courtesy: https://www.javaheritagetour.com/category/ramayana-ballet-prambanan/

Islam spread in Indonesia through traders and Sufi saints and as such it has always been a much more tolerant version. And of course, the unique Indonesian character has also contributed to this. In the past also, they believed in syncretism and even now, they believe in accepting and preserving the best of traditions and different cultures.

In the heart of Jakarta, in front of the National Museum, there is a magnificent statue of Arjun with his chariot of eleven horses and Sri Krishna as his charioteer (Arjuna Wijaya). ‘Siti’ (noble, virtuous lady) and ‘Dewi’ (goddess) are two of the most popular female names in Indonesia even today (Wisnu, Surya, Indra, Putra also continue to be popular names). Indonesia, home to the largest Muslim population in the world, is also an extraordinarily tolerant multi-culture, multi-ethnic society.

Pic courtesy: Wikimedia Commons

Indonesia’s national language, Bahasa (comes from Sanskrit, Bhasha), contains a number of Sanskrit words as they have preserved so many Puranic tales. Indonesia’s state ideology is Pancasila (Five Principles) and the state motto is Bhinneka Tinggal eka (Unity in Diversity). A large number of national institutions have Sanskrit mottos, including its Army (Kartika Eka Paksi - Unmatchable Bird with Noble Goals), Navy (Jalasveva Jayamahai - On the Sea, We are Glorious), combined forces (Tri Dharma Eka Karma - Three services, one determination), and National Police Force (Rastra Sewakottama - Serving the Nation). Though it was withdrawn in 2008, but Between 1998 and 2008, Indonesian 20,000 Rupiah banknotes had the picture of Ganesha.

Pic Courtesy Garuda Indonesia

As we finished going around the core temple complex, we profusely thanked Yono for such an enlightening tour. With folded hands and a benign smile, Yono said he would like to make a request – he has heard that in India not too many people read Skandapurana and such epic literature anymore, can’t we do something to revive interests in ancient Indian texts? We two Indians did not know where to hide our face and said a quick goodbye to Yono and left for a long road trip back to Jakarta.